Decoding Colour Correctors
On the heels of the contouring craze, colour-correcting makeup is one of the biggest beauty trends to achieve a flawless face in 2016. Tackle skin trouble spots (redness/sallowness/dark circles) with different colours for complexion perfection.
To the uninitiated, colour-correcting concealers can seem intimidating —pastel hues like pistachio and lavender may seem better suited at a gelato counter. But colour correctors have been a staple in makeup artists’ kits for decades (used on photo shoots, TV sets and theatre makeup). Those old school textures were thick and pigments were flat so they were challenging to work with for the average person.
Today’s formulas are more nuanced and foolproof, with light-reflecting, pigments and user-friendly textures: in liquid, pencil and even cushion. Basic colour theory from art class applies – use complementary colours (green to cover red, orange to brighten blue, pink to cancel dullness etc)
Colour Correct 101: Eliminate Dullness All Over
Sallow/dull skin will benefit from a lavender pick-me-up. You can apply all over as a primer or target the area just above the cheekbones and forehead. Colour correctors are meant to neutralize skin tone, but they don’t replace concealer or foundation. You should still dab your usual concealer on top. Many makeup artists liken colour correction to wearing a great pair of shape-wear – it gives you that smooth base, but you don’t want to head out the door half-dressed, concealer completes the “outfit.”
Colour Correct 101: Rehab for Redness
If you breakout, or if you flush easily, green minimizes blotchiness and redness. Green is especially great around the nose, chin, cheeks and eyelids where blood vessels tend to be more apparent. I like using a precise applicator here (doe-foot, spatula type applicator or a pencil) to target blemishes or redness at the corner of your nose and on your eyelid.
Colour Correct 101: Brighten Dark Circles
Cancel out dark circles with an apricot tone. The depth of the hue should align with your skin tone. For example, fair skin types should seek a salmon-pink corrector, olive and brown skin tones should reach for a more peach tone and dark-skinned women should opt for orange correctors. Don’t go too light on dark skin - lighter pastels often have too much white in them that can look ashy on darker skin tones. Use your ring finger to work the corrector in to the skin under the eyes – that will help it blend seamlessly.
Products to try:
· Make Up For Ever 5 Camouflage Cream Palette Color Correct & Concealer, $49. Available at Sephora.
· Cover FX Correct Click, $24. Available at Sephora.
Colour Correct 101: Extreme Colour Correction
Once you get the hang of colour correction, you may want to try the technique on multiple parts of your face for a real pro finish – which is huge trend on Instagram. The key to a pro finish is the order of application you want to moisturize, prime the skin, colour correct and then go in with your foundation, concealer and finally, powder.